We left Settlers Cove at noon much later than our normal SP time at 9:30. There were so many trails and beaches to hike that we wanted to get as much in as we could before we left. The trails were just magnificent like I said before, they were flush with green ferns growing everywhere, and the bright iridescence of moss growing and hanging from trees, it was just a green wonderland.
Ann Marie was happy that she found some sea glass on a couple of the beaches. We arrived back at Ward Lake at about 1230 and we settled in and did some hiking, of course it was still raining but we’re dealing with it.
18 May – Virgil and I went fishing with some new tackle that we bought from Walmart and lo and behold Virgil caught a fish! He fillet it for dinner.
But before dinner, Ann Marie and I walked through the woods looking for and harvesting fiddlehead fronds.
Fiddleheads are the tightly coiled tips of ferns that are available only in early spring, if left on the plant, each fiddlehead would unroll into a new frond. Fiddleheads are sweet like asparagus, grassy and snappy like a green bean, with a touch of broccoli. There are so many fern plants growing here Walmart would be envious (and make a fortune).
As we strolled through the lush rain forest’s floor, we used a stick to push away the ferns to look at the base for young fiddlehead growing, and we pick it at the base. We picked a quart size zippy bag in about 30 minutes.
Ann Marie went back to the TC and she blanched the fiddleheads then sautéed them with butter and garlic. She placed them on the trout, and baked it. Hmmm, that was good! Living off the land!
19 May – We sp at zero 930 and drive to downtown Ketchikan for some tourist activity. Enroute we filled up with diesel at $5.05 a gallon, we filled up with fresh water, we dumped our gray and black tanks, plus we refilled our propane. We are all topped off and ready to continue our adventure.
We stopped at the Totem Bight State Historical Park which contains a community(Clan) house and 15 totem poles, most of them replicas of 19th-century poles. It was a well laid out park to see impressive totems as you walked through the rainforest canopy, then into a clearing overlooking the bay of Ketchikan.
The tide was out, which drew Ann Maire to the waters edge, while Delores, Virgil, and myself were emerged into the historical background of these totems.
I heard a “whistle” from far away, and I knew it was Ann Maire. So I walked down to the waters edge and she was super excited, about finding some of mother nature’s sea creatures. Four different types of starfish, a live (read eatable) crab and tons of cool shells. Of course she got her share of sea glass down there.
BTW, this totem park was made possible by the CCC. Think about how many sites we visit across America that the CCC has built for us. It is truly unbelievable.
We walked the streets of downtown Ketchikan with 15,000 of our closest friends as there were four cruise ships in port. The store owners were standing in the doors trying to lure you in to buy diamonds and and other junk.
We went to famous Creek Street, a 1920’s historic boardwalk perched on pilings along the banks of Ketchikan Creek. A former Red Light District where both men and salmon swam upstream to spawn. Brothels and bars on the lined the docks with the creek below. Today they have a whore house museum with a “Madam” standing outside twirling her purple feather boa. None of us partaked but I did enjoy talking to her, and when we left she said “when you come back, I’ll show you a good time”. I guess that was a raincheck.
From Creek St we drove south along the Tongass Hwy, stopping to view some of the many waterfalls along the way and to visit the old cannery, which sits at the end of the road. Guess what? It too is private property, owned by the same native tribal council that owns the old boy scout camp, and it to is closed. So another uturn, but no worries we are going to the Hole in the wall next.
Nick and Abby, the couple we meet on the a trail, recommended a small bar that serves burgers nestled in a marina. We drove past it once, as it truly is a hole in the wall, and turned around and found a spot to tie up Bigfoot and Elkhorn as we we go to our watering hole.
We walk down a flight of steps and there is a shack to the right. We pass a bbq grill on the “patio” that also had a ping pong table that had not been used in years. The wooden top was swelled up from the moisture, and the dust on it was a little thick. Behind the recreation table, was a white board on the wall with the menu, anything you want, as long it is burgers, hotdogs, chili, and fries.
We enter thru the open door frame to a bar in the corner of the room with 7 stools. There were two tables next to the wall with seating for four total. The owner, a 75ish year old long haired hippie and another guy were sitting there. So we pony up to the bar, Christina the bar tender was quick on our drinks and took our food orders of, yep you got it, burgers!
She then went outside to the “patio” to the BBQ grill and cooked the burgers to perfection. Was not expecting that! Not sure where she cooked the fries, but some things are better left alone. Food was great though and Christina was a gem.
While eating, in walks a guy wearing an NY Mets hat and jersey, and a 5 pound gold wrist watch, and the best bear you would every see. Bear is a black dog who was wearing a bandana around it’s neck. Bear is a NY GIANTS FAN!
We had a great time BSing with Ted from Jersey. He was funny, loud, a didn’t give a crap. We had a great time talking about football and life’s adventures in this little Hole in the Wall. When we left the owner was sitting outside, kinda hunched over with his legs crossed and he flashed us the “peace sign” and said, “peace and love”. Thank you Nick and Abby!
We spent the night in Walmart, as at zero 730 we had to be at the Alaska Ferry Terminal for leg two our our adventure. Wrangell.
Enjoying your trip log and pictures.